Beauty Launchpad Magazine

FEB 2018

Beauty Launchpad is everything beauty for salons & stylists! Stay on top of the latest hair style trends and products for hair, skin, makeup and nails. Get hair color ideas, business advice, education tips and beauty industry news.

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Page 95 of 104

FEBRUARY 2018 | | 91 Surface Planing. If you start at the scalp with a thinning shear, within a month or two, the new growth begins to push the hair all around—making it look bumpy, round and just plain ugly. Surface plane so that you can assess the hair and target areas that require bulk removal. Back vs. Sides. Even thick hair tends to be thinner on the sides. Surface plane the back sections and switch to conventional layering on the sides. Pie Sections. Divide the head ear to ear, then subdivide into pie-shaped sections. Twist the back sections inward, starting at the nape, and surface plane. In front of the ear, twist the sections outward to maintain length. Always keep in mind that curly hair shrinks, so you must compensate for that reduction when cutting. If your target is six inches, leave the length seven or eight inches, depending on how loose or tight the curl is. Razors are Okay. Razors can work well as long as you respect the hair growth. Work on wet tresses and use a moisturizing formula like Matrix Oil Wonders Sharp Cutting Oil to help the razor glide smoothly through the hair. Fringe Control. If a client wants fringe, it has to be soft and smooth. One option is to do a 15-minute Matrix Opti.Smooth cold service at the sink on the fringe while performing a conditioning treatment on the rest of the hair. If the client opts out of the permanent smoothing treatment, show her how to apply a leave-in like Style Link Blowout Skinny Queen cream for control, then use a blowdryer followed by a fl at iron to keep fringe soft. I never cut fringe in the summer because the humidity makes it so hard to manage. My clients know that if they want fringe or even a shorter haircut, I'll do it in the fall. Natural Style. More of my clients are embracing their natural textures, so in addition to removing bulk while cutting, they can benefi t from extra support while styling. The Biolage 3Butter Control System is ideal for these clients. I recommend applying the Overnight Mask to clean damp hair in the evening, then twisting strands into two low "Princess Leia" knots. Once clients wake up, they can apply the Day Cream and fi nish styling. The result is pretty, unstructured curls that are lustrous and free of frizz. IN BULK Robert Santana, Matrix artistic director and Latin Expressions team leader, shares his top tips for de-bulking unruly tresses. COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS Fresh Package Brooklyn, NY-based brand amika is getting a makeover. All of the beloved formulas are staying the same, but the products will now be color-coded according to type. The packaging relaunch better refl ects amika's current aesthetic, and the brand, which has always put self-expression fi rst, wants to make sure its fun-loving products continue to stand out on salon shelves but are easier to navigate. The redesigned amika packaging is color-coded according to type.

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