Beauty Launchpad Magazine

FEB 2018

Beauty Launchpad is everything beauty for salons & stylists! Stay on top of the latest hair style trends and products for hair, skin, makeup and nails. Get hair color ideas, business advice, education tips and beauty industry news.

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56 The Colorist | FEBRUARY 2018 | beautylaunchpad.com FROM TOP: COURTESY OF SAM LABELLA; LISA MCAULIFFE; DANIELLE KEASLING; MISAEL APONTE; SARA GALLAGHER; PETER BROKT; WENDY BOND Expert stylists share their foolproof formulas and fail-safe tips for achieving pitch-perfect color results. —LA recipe for success CREATE A BLANK CANVAS FOR FASHION COLORS. Sam LaBella { ALOXXI NATIONAL EDUCATION TEAM MEMBER } "Adjust the way you view pre-lightening to achieve fashion colors and pastels. Many stylists pull a client to a level 9 or 10 and throw on the next formula without addressing the giant 'yellow' in the room. Aloxxi's 10V in the Tones demipermanent line is one of my favorites to bring me to a blank canvas before I color play. If clients are sitting at a lower level, aka warmer, Aloxxi has Gems in Tones that has straight blue and violet pigments to add to your toner; 10V with a small ribbon of Blue Gem is amazing." @samlabellahair ACHIEVE RICH-LOOKING NATURAL HIGHLIGHTS. Lisa McAuliffe { PRODUCT CLUB EDUCATOR } "When trying to achieve rich-looking natural highlights, my go-to is L'Oréal Professionnel Dialight 2 parts clear + 1 part 9.03 (natural gold) + 1 part 9.02 (natural violet ash) with 9-volume developer. One might think that combining golds and ashes would just create a natural/neutral blonde; however, oftentimes using a natural/neutral to tone/glaze can leave the hair looking fl at or muddy. Combining a gold with a violet ash and cutting the formula with clear creates the most beautiful iridescent, rich blonde." @hair_by_lam SMOKE OUT ANY TONE WITHOUT CHANGING THE LEVEL. Danielle Keasling { MATRIX ARTISTIC DIRECTOR } "Metallic, muted and smoky tones are what everyone is talking about. Smoke out any of our Color Sync favorite formulas (see example) by adding anywhere from a pea-size drop to a 1-inch line of 1A. It's my go-to for muted smoke tones. Remember, the color deposit is intense, so a little goes a long way." @danielle.keasling KEEP REDHEADS COOL. Misael Aponte { OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL INTERNATIONAL COLOR DIRECTOR } "One of my personal tips for coloring redheads is to add 5 grams of Violet Concentrate (Oligo Professionnel Calura 0-66/0VV) to all of my cherry and burgundy red formulas. Doing this prevents the red from being weakened by the orange contribution of the underlying pigment, especially when lifting with reds. As violet is made up of red and blue, the blue component adds richness and depth that helps cancel out any orange contribution—which can otherwise make a cherry red lose intensity and appear more copper—while the red half of the Violet Concentrate helps intensify the red saturation." @misaelaponteart COOL DOWN AN OVERLY WARM BLONDE. Sara Gallagher { SURFACE HAIR CARE COLOR DIRECTOR } "My go-to formula for toning blondes that are too warm is always Surface Pure Color ¾ part 9V Lavender + ¼ part 7B Denim + equal parts of 00 Bassu Shine and 7-volume Enzyme Cream Activator. Create organic blondes by color melting in triangular sections for effortless blending. Use a Surface N series of choice at the base and melt to my go-to formula for a cool blonde beauty." @sarasurfacehair FIX "OVER-BLONDED" HAIR. Peter Brokt { EUFORACOLOR TRAINER } "To warm up guests' hair, fi x over-blonded tresses due to sun exposure, or tone or low-light, one of my personal favorite EuforaColor combinations is the gold/violet at a level 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 mixed with our copper/violet at levels 6, 7 or 8 in any combination needed. There is no need to be afraid of brassy undertones, since Eufora gold is very controlled and will provide the right balance for over- lightened hair, which lacks pigment." @peterbroktdesign PULL OFF A PERFECT DOUBLE-PROCESS BLONDE. Wendy Bond { LAKMÉ DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION } "For double-process clients I always use two different toning formulas—one for the regrowth (that's more controlling) and a softer or more sheer one for the mid-shafts to ends. This allows me the time necessary to neutralize the inevitable abundance of warmth at the regrowth without over-depositing on the ends. Remember to apply the root formula fi rst, letting it process until you're halfway to your desired tone, and then apply the second formula on the mid-shafts and ends." @wendybondhair smoky amethyst formula ¾-ounce Matrix Color Sync Watercolors Berry Violet + ¼-ounce Watercolors Sapphire Blue + ½-ounce 10A + 2 pea-size drops of 1A + 10-volume Cream Developer

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