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108 | BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD | JULY 2017 News "Tousled" and "buoyant" describe the "it" shape (and style) for summer! To perform this cut, I use a technique called surface planing to layer the interior sections. This is done in place of the conventional layering method of lifting sections to 90 degrees. Surface planing produces seamless, invisible layers that support this contemporary texture. It's done by opening and closing the shears along the topmost layer of each section, from the original, shortest point on the strand to the ends. Here is my cutting process on fi ne-to-medium hair: 1. Divide the head from ear to ear, then create pie-shaped sections radiating from the crown. 2. Lift the back pie section and surface plane from the shortest point to the ends. 3. Work around the head in this manner, surface planing each pie section. 4. Slightly over-direct the section over the ear to compensate for the height of the ear and to avoid creating a "hole." 5. Create and clip away a triangular section that extends from the high point of the head to the outside corner of each eye. 6. Divide the remaining side sections in half. Over-direct the fi rst half to just behind the ear, and the second half all the way to the back before surface planing. 7. Release the top triangular section. Establish the fringe length— anywhere from the top of the lip to the chin. Over-direct the entire section to the left and "walk" the blade along the fringe by opening and closing it, blending the fringe with the sides. Then swing the section all the way to the right and repeat, following the length guide. Release and skim the shears along the surface of the hair to remove weight, and to blend the point in the center. If the client's hair is wavy or curly, the cutting process is the same, with a few exceptions. First, twist each pie section before surface planing to support the curly movement by creating shorter interior pieces. Also, be sure to exaggerate the fringe length by ½- to one-inch to allow for this texture's tendency to kick up. Treat fi ne-to-medium hair with Matrix Oil Wonders Volume Rose, and treat heavier hair with Oil Wonders Amazonian Murumuru Oil to tame frizz before styling. Finally, I always use Matrix Sharp Cut Oil before every haircut. It enhances glide as you cut, plus it helps lubricate the shears, which prevents abrupt lines in the cut. It also provides light conditioning benefi ts. MAKING THE CUT Robert Santana, Matrix artistic director and Latin Expressions team leader, dishes on his go-to summer cut for clients. 866-481-4604 ENROLL NOW - CALL A SPECIALIST TODAY! www.nynab.com ©2017 North American Bancard is a registered ISO of Wells Fargo Bank, N.A., Walnut Creek, CA, and The Bancorp Bank, Philadelphia, PA. American Express may require separate approval. * Durbin regulated Check Card percentage rate. A per transaction fee will also apply. **Some restrictions apply. This advertisement is sponsored by an ISO of North American Bancard. Apple Pay is a trademark of Apple Inc. . 05 % WHOLESALE RATES INTERCHANGE % RATES AS LOW AS * PROCESS CREDIT CARDS ON YOUR SMARTPHONE • FREE Placement, Credit Card Terminal Wireless / Land Line / High Speed / Dial-Up • Easy Setup - Quick Approval • Integrate with your current POS • Free Paper** • No set-up fee • Check Services Available • NAB will reimburse your business up to $ 295** if you have an early termination fee with your current processor NEXT DAY FUNDING AVAILABLE BECOME EMV READY N F C & E M V E N A B L E D FREE TERMINAL & PIN PAD or WIRELESS TERMINAL WIFI TABLET TERMINAL REDUCE YOUR CREDIT CARD PROCESSING FEES COURTESY OF MATRIX