Beauty Launchpad Magazine

JUL 2016

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110 | BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD | JULY 2016 When deciding between a razor and shears, consider the hair as a fabric. The tool you choose will affect the feel of the lines and the structure of the fi nished look. The razor having one single blade and the shears having two blades give us different possibilities. The razor creates a softer, more lightweight feel, helping the hair feel less restricted in its movement. It's like a pencil in an artist's hand, in that you can change the direction and strength of a line very quickly. Razor cuts can also be very versatile and easy to style, which is a plus when suggesting a new look for a guest—whether that guest be a man or woman. Shears, on the other hand, can be used to give strength to the lines with structure and geometric angles—equally important and necessary in every stylist's arsenal! Of course both tools can be used separately or together to create all sorts of amazing fi nishes. When determining which to choose, think more of the lines and attitude you want to see in the fi nished look. And remember that no matter which tool you pick, opt for a high- quality razor and blade as well as shears that are ergonomically correct. In my opinion, every hairdresser who considers herself a cutting specialist needs to have both tools at her disposal, and knowledge of how to use each to the best of its abilities. With that said, razors sometimes get a bad rap—they're not as commonly taught in schools, and more errors can thus occur when putting them into practice. Some advice for razor cutting: DO • Go to a class that includes razor cutting in the program. It's important to get fully schooled on this tool before using it on a client. Plus, getting rid of the fear that's often involved when fi rst using this tool will open up a whole new world of cutting possibilities. • Change your blade as soon as it gets dull. Dull blades can cause the hair to look damaged. • Use a good leave-in cutting agent. It will keep the hair hydrated, as well as give you greater control while cutting. • Use a razor on curly hair. If used correctly, the razor can bring so much to a curly haircut, from softening the perimeter line to refi ning the individual curl pattern. • Work in the direction you want the hair to go on all hair types. • Share with the guest the positive reasons for using the razor—eliminate any hesitation she may have with your expert tutelage. • Let the world know that you are a razor cutter and that you specialize in all types of haircutting. That's one of the marks of a true stylist. DON'T • Over-texturize or over-thin the hair, as this can cause the appearance of damage and frizz. • Overwork with a dull or cheap blade that can lead to damage. Like good shears, a good blade is essential. • Let curly hair get dehydrated during the cut—it ruins the fi nish. Reach for a cutting leave-in tonic. 1 Polished titanium razor incorporates a scuba grip along with a soft silicone guard that gently slides across the hair. Surface Titanium Razor surfacehair.com 2 Available in both fi ne and wide types, razor contains a zinc alloy T-Top for better control and balance, as well as materials that are heat resistant up to 350 degrees. Donald Scott NYC Carving Comb donaldscottnyc.com 3 Tool proffers a non-slip gel grip for max comfort and control, and comes with two guards and fi ve blades to boot. Personna Flare Hair Shaping Razor personna.com Raze the Roof When to reach for a razor rather than shears? Surface Hair Artistic Director Gerard Kierans shares the scoop, as well as the biggest do's and don'ts of razor cutting. These razors can provide the sharpest of snips. RAZORS UP 1 2 3 GETTY IMAGES

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