Beauty Launchpad Magazine

JUL 2016

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JULY 2016 | beautylaunchpad.com | 109 VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF LIFE Add variety to your collection with shears that address specifi c purposes. Instead of going for a "one- size-fi ts-all" blending shear, have a range of shears at your disposal. A blending shear with a tighter tooth spacing will remove more hair with each cut and be more effi cient at techniques like "blending shear over comb." A blending shear that removes minimal amounts of hair is incredible for reducing density in areas that are more delicate, such as fringes and necklines. INVEST Put money into higher-end materials like molybdenum—not only does it hold a fi ner edge for a longer period of time, it also reduces vibration to the hand for a smooth, easy feel. LENGTH AND SIZE Many new stylists and even some experienced snippers are under the common misconception that the length of their shears should be determined by the size of their hand. In reality, this is not the case. (There are many with larger hands who simply prefer short shears, as well as those with small hands who cut all day with 7-inch blades.) Instead, stylists must consider the variety of different cutting techniques they will employ in order to carry out their work. Different-sized shears are used to perform different styling techniques. For example, short shears are much better suited for detailed precision cutting, while longer shears are preferred for powerful cutting. The standard size most hairdressers use ranges 5-6 inches. This falls neatly into the middle ground between some of the shortest scissors on the market at 4.5 inches to the longer end at 7 inches. EVERY STYLIST SHOULD HAVE AT LEAST TWO PAIRS OF SHEARS If it's manageable for you, it is best to have a pair of shorter shears, like a 5.5-inch for precision cutting between your fi ngers, and longer shears for the techniques listed below. • One-Length Cutting (such as bobs) When cutting a "bob-line," the hair is combed down against the neckline. Here, a longer blade will allow for fewer cuts to connect the line all the way across. This enables a cleaner line and will signifi cantly reduce the time this effect will take you to create. • Scissor Over Comb Here the comb will pick up a wider section of hair than your fi ngers. By using a longer blade, you will be able to cut the hair cleanly without it falling out of the comb. This benefi ts the stylist as it requires less effort and, most importantly, less time. Another benefi t of a longer blade for scissor over comb is that the weight of the blade allows the shear to do the work as well. • Deep Texturizing When we need to work deeper into the hair to create bold "peaks and valleys" for visual texture, a longer blade is much more effi cient. • Compression Cutting In today's world, effi ciency is key to create value for clients, and compression cutting is one of the techniques being used more often. Working with large sections of hair requires shears that can handle the density, so look for a longer length that also has a blade structure which increases strength and rigidity to prevent folding. 1 Six-inch texturizing shears of 440c Hitachi Japanese stainless steel fl aunt 30 micro-serrated teeth along with a durable molybdenum base. Martino Cartier Royal Texturizing Shears martinobymartinocartier.com 2 Medium-weight scissors are forged from Hitachi V-1 steel, and feature Anti-Push Edge technology for superior cutting performance. Washi GEN Master washiscissor.com 3 Made for those with smaller fi ngers, lightweight shears are crafted with high-quality Japanese steel, a convex edge and crane handle. Karg Shear K-BSlide Slim mikekarg.com Shop Talk Sam Villa, Founding Partner of his eponymous brand and Education Artistic Director for Redken, explores what to look for when shopping for your ideal shears. Shears snip strands with clean precision. SHARPER IMAGE Available in 5.5-inch, 6-inch or 6.5-inch! 1 2 3 GETTY IMAGES

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