Brings the hottest beauty products and fashion trends to the salon and spa industry. Launchpad focuses on new products, tools and services for hair, skin, make up and nails.
Issue link: https://beautylaunchpad.epubxp.com/i/667387
W hen designer Jenny Packham staged her Spring 2016 show nearly nine months ago, she referenced rock-n-roll icons (think: Mick Jagger, Nick Cave and David Bowie) whose gender could seem very fl uid—especially in their sartorial choices. With the recent passing of Bowie, the thumbprint he put on the blurring of feminine and masculine norms seems even more at the forefront of our collective thinking. Such blurring naturally comes across in the hairstyle—a texture-laden, rocker-chic affair—that UNITE Lead Stylist Kevin Ryan crafts for Packham's show. Though the designer is known for her ultra-feminine red carpet gowns (Kate Middleton is a fan), Ryan insists that this time around there's a masculine vibe pulsing right beneath the surface. "Jenny's dresses are very beautiful, but there's an edge to them," he explains. "And the girl under the dress is interesting; we want the hair to go with that girl." Ryan builds texture through product-layering: First, a heavy spritzing of Beach Day Texturizing (unitehair.com) throughout the entire head, followed by both Texturiza Spray Dry Finishing and Tricky Spray Finishing Wax from roots to ends. With product in place, Ryan roughs up hair using his fi ngers to increase lived-in texture. Then comes the key technique to the look: Using a fl at iron, Ryan picks up small sections at the root, lifting the hair at the crown for rock-star height sans backcombing. "I don't want it to look '60s. I want it to have a little Patti Smith, a little 'when you fall asleep on the train and you wake up' hair," Ryan notes. "Hair tools are paintbrushes. It's up to you what you paint with them. You don't have to do it cookie-cutter or be restricted by the tools." Fluid, indeed. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: NOAM GALAI/GETTY IMAGES FOR NYFW: THE SHOWS; ANDREEA ANGELESCU; NEILSON BARNARD/GETTY IMAGES FOR NYFW: THE SHOWS 68 | BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD | MAY 2016 Trendsetters/ Runway Report Fluid Texture The blurred gender lines of rock-n- roll icons lend hair a textured edge at Jenny Packham. —KARIE L. FROST Lift Off A bit of height at the crown feels more Patti Smith than Brigitte Bardot. Hero Product UNITE Beach Day Texturizing lays the foundation for lived- in locks.