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22 | BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD | APRIL 2016 T o be a runway stylist is to be a master of organized chaos. Every season, show, designer, collection and model is different, yet running through this many disparate parts is the common element of life backstage. And it is always frenetic. Time ceases to pass in the usual way. It contracts and then expands, ostensibly mocking Einstein by breaking the rules of relativity. Such moments of intensity are demanding—the ultimate test of one's physical stamina and creative mettle—yet also highly addictive. Numerous threads must come together in the knitting of a runway stylist's career, yet it all starts with one simple act: saying "yes." "I did my fi rst show seven years ago for designer Debra Davenport at L.A. Fashion Week," recalls Wella Professionals stylist Aubrey Loots. "Someone had backed out last minute and a client mentioned they needed help, and I said 'yes' without having any clue what I was getting into." This leap into the unknown led him down a rabbit hole of previously unfathomed professional possibilities, and today the pro routinely oversees 180 models in up to 15 shows per day. "It's crazy and requires lots of hairspray and I love it," he enthuses. After that initial yes, the second thing a novice has to do is say yes again. And then again. And keep saying it, an endless refrain. "Breaking into this fi eld is challenging in part because there's so much cutthroat competition," reveals Jon Reyman, Owner of Spoke & Weal salons, with locations in California and New York. "I was always willing to show up and fi ght, and I took every position, pay or no pay." Time, the most precious of all commodities, can't be bartered, traded or sold. The common consensus is that newbies must be ready to surrender nights, weekends, holidays, friendships, relationships and savings accounts, as achieving icon status won't come without sacrifi ce. "I once had an aunt who passed away before a Gucci show, and I had to call my cousin to explain why I couldn't make the funeral," remembers industry mainstay Orlando Pita. "At the beginning, before you make it, you're the one who fi lls in on a Sunday, or the Fourth of July, or for the month of August." After all, there are no doors at the beach on which opportunity may knock. It perhaps goes without saying that such profound commitment can't be easily maintained without underlying passion. "I've always loved fashion and felt drawn to working behind the scenes," refl ects Jefferson Tangradi, Creative Director at The Well salon in Los Angeles. "The act of helping to construct fantasy worlds compels me at my core." Seamless collaboration with colleagues is an equally essential characteristic. Top Wella Professionals Artist Claudio Lazo urges fl edgling stylists to remain humble and check their egos at the entrance. "You are simply a piece of the puzzle, cooperating to create a fi nished look," he notes. "Countless talented individuals must come together to contribute to that vision." And when backstage sets heat up, as will inevitably happen, the winners are those who keep their cool. "Some people scream, throw products, hurl profanities, and they're often not invited back the following year," divulges Pita. "As a leader I know it's my job to support my team by staying calm under pressure." To those who toil go the spoils, which, in runway's case, translates to head-buzzing excitement. "The stylist, makeup artist and manicurist soon fall into synchronous rhythm, and you know the press, photographers and audience are all waiting in the dark for their fi rst glimpse of the fi nished look," says Lazo. "As the story unfolds I'm still overcome by a massive adrenaline rush—and forever hooked to that feeling." Yet it's important to remember that by defi nition this is a designer's story. Keeping that truth in mind is key to a successful long-term partnership. "Hair and makeup are without a doubt vital components, but at the end of the day it's about the designers and their clothes, so don't let your tress creations take over," Loots urges. Maintaining that focused balance can be tricky when decisions are being executed at accelerated speed. In the blink of a second, a backstage artist can only gut-react on autopilot. There's no time to stop and consciously consider action courses, which is why advanced training is so fundamentally important. "I was a sponge when I fi rst started, and I still continue to absorb all the tips and techniques I encounter," says Tangradi. "That means practicing when I'm not behind the chair, signing up for classes and conceiving my own editorials." In a pinch, the ability to set a perfect pin curl can mean the difference between a successful or disastrous show. Inspiration for such continued evolution can be found everywhere. It's in magazines both old and new, art, nature, architecture, shapes and the complex history of this always-innovative industry. Some pros were lucky to have been guided early in their careers by generous mentors whose advice they still hold sacred, while others are respectfully ready and overthrow the old guard and keep pace with ever- shifting paradigms. Yet there is one fundamental on which both groups agree: When it comes to runway, gigs come and go. Some will be gained, while other coveted spots are lost. And ultimately, that's all right. "There's enough hair for everyone," promises Reyman. Project Runway Top runway stylists share tips and secrets of their trade. —FRANCESCA MOISIN C O N V ERSATI O N S Aubrey Loots created this head-turning look for the runway. Profi les