Beauty Launchpad Magazine

AUG 2019

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EXTENSION LEARNING ough Cox admits that hair loss or thinning-hair clients often request extensions or wigs, too-tight "solutions" can cause traction to the already stressed hairline, while extensions may potentially pull on the follicle, causing even more loss and possible damage. "I try to evaluate for each guest the pros and cons, and have a conversation about which weft system is best for her particular hair type and need," Cox says. "For instance, with a guest who suff ers from trichotillomania (pulling out her own hair), more long- term extension solutions and wigs provide a great option." Monique Hale, owner of Extension Bar LA, believes that with proper consultation and stylist education, extensions can be suitable for about 90 percent of clients. "But ask the right questions," she warns. "Why do they want them? Why is their hair thinning—are they on any medication; have they had any surgery and been under any anesthesia; or is it alopecia? If they're the right candidate, extensions change lives!" In cases of clients with traction alopecia, Hale recommends a hair vitamin—and does not apply extensions unless cleared by the client's doctor. "But I have seen extensions over the course of six months make hair stronger, longer and healthier with proper installation and educating clients on how to take care of them at home," Hale adds. Hill agrees that integrating extensions and wigs into a long-term haircare plan can be done in a healthy way, and properly applied extensions can be an excellent tool for transitioning into a healthier haircare regimen. "All hair types benefi t from investing in a quality pair of clip-in extensions to add temporary fullness and length," Hill concludes. "But fi ner-hair clients should minimize any technique that puts tension on the individual strands of hair (such as beading)." Quinones believes that extensions and wigs are ideal for temporary enhancement—if the client is willing to invest in maintenance to keep their scalp EXPERTS AGREE: The consultation is a must for thinning-hair clients. The consultation is where you can "establish yourself as the expert, but know your limits," says Syrenthia Quinones, brand education manager for Nioxin. "Educate yourself on the topic. As the professional, it's your job (and duty) to identify and address any concerns you or your client may have, so don't wait for your client to uncomfortably bring up the topic." Here, pros offer top advice for broaching this sensitive subject—as well as providing solutions. Speak plainly. Impart your knowledge in a way she will understand. Ask direct questions and discuss your observations. Sounding judgmental or fl ippant could shut down the dialogue right away. Active listening plays a major part: Your client needs to know she is being heard, so repeat her concerns back to her so she knows you're listening. Finally, the mirror is for refl ections, not consultations. Instead, get on her level: Pull up a chair, seated next to or in front of your client, to create a relaxed environment. Be mindful of your posture and body language; for example, folded arms can send the message of a closed-off stance. Don't rush the conversation. is is a sensitive topic for some, so it may take time for your client to open up; book yourself ample time for an uninterrupted consultation. Before you touch your client's hair or scalp, hear her concerns, build trust and then ask to perform a thorough hair/scalp analysis (going right into the analysis without asking may put her on the defense and feel rushed)." —Syrenthia Quinones, brand education manager, Nioxin Asking the right questions is the key: 'What are you enjoying about your hair?' 'What are your challenges?' 'Are you achieving your desired amount of fullness and volume?' 'How has your scalp been?' ese questions give you the opportunity to help." —Jackie Yochim, development, Surface; manager, Visions Salon & Spa Be empathetic, respect your client's privacy by being discreet, and be open to any questions she may have. We teach our stylists to lead the conversation by gently asking one of the following questions: 'Have you noticed any changes to your hair and scalp?' 'Does hair loss or thinning run in your family?' 'Your hair density does not seem as full as it did during your last visit; have you noticed more shedding than usual?' " —Jim Markham, founder and CEO, ColorProof Color Care Authority When recommending products based on specifi c thinning concerns, it's important to suggest the products be applied to the entire hair and scalp to address and prevent future hair loss." —Heather Ka'anoi, artistic director, John Paul Mitchell Systems For new clients, creating a checklist that you can have them fi ll out can be an easy way to gather information. Also, look at clients' grooming practices. Do they shampoo frequently or once a week? Do they want volume or just need to slow the thinning? Some products need to be used when the clients shampoo, but others can be used daily on the scalp, even if they don't shampoo—a great option if they need to protect their hairline or have just one area that is thin. However, if thinning is extreme, recommend they see a doctor or dermatologist." —Michelle Blaisure, product development director, Bosley Professional Strength CONSULTATION KEYS AUGUST 2019 beautylaunchpad.com 83

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