Beauty Launchpad Magazine

FEB 2019

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64 | BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD | FEBRUARY 2019 The hair on our heads can sustain higher heat levels than skin or any other body part, but it's by no means unbreakable. For this reason alone, clients need your advice on how to practice care when using at-home thermal tools. Many curling and fl at irons come with settings that spike to 450°F, but Eufora style director Mirza Batanovic advises that oftentimes, less is best for at-home use. "Suggest that clients leave high levels of heat to the pros, because we do fast, even passes over hair to prevent frying," he explains. Here's a good rule of thumb: The fi ner a client's hair texture and the lighter it is in color, the lower heat she should employ. When having the discussion, you can draw parallels your clients will understand, such as: Follicles are like fabric. One wouldn't iron silk— aka, fi ne strands—on the same heat setting as cotton, equivalent here to thicker locks. Think of 360°F as a general Goldilocks temperature: not too hot (sizzled frizz), but not too cold (zero change in texture). Coarse hair can take a bit more heat, but "fi ne hair has fewer protective built-in layers, so it should always be treated with less warmth," says Batanovic— aim for 300°F. Blonde highlights like 250°F, while platinum hair gets ironed at 180°F max. "The more heat used on any cosmetic color, the faster the dye will fade," Batanovic reminds. Thermal protectants are an essential fi rst step, yet clients often overlook them because they feel overwhelmed when selecting the correct spray in a market saturated with elixir options. "Urge clients to consult their stylist—you—who spends time learning about the ingredients in products and how they both defend and restore hair," suggests Batanovic. "Transforming curly coils into a silky, smooth look can feel overwhelming," says Paula Peralta, John Paul Mitchell Systems international trainer. These six steps take the guesswork out of wrangling ringlets. Start in the wash. Peralta fi rst uses clarifying shampoo to purge buildup, followed by a second moisturizing wash. "I leave in a dollop of conditioner, which helps with smoothing, but also weight," reveals colorist and Matrix stylist Ursula Goff. "Dense, coarse hair often needs heavier product to tame." Skip the rub. Blot and scrunch wet curly hair with a towel. "Rubbing can rough up cuticles, which can contribute to frizz," notes Goff. Get product savvy. Goff next adds argan oil from mid-lengths to ends to penetrate shafts for deeper moisture. "Use more product when styling curly hair curly, and less when blow-drying curly hair straight," Peralta directs. Create a road map. Break up hair into horizontal sections, beginning at the bottom. "The denser the hair, the smaller the sections need to be for effective smoothing," says Goff. This further saves stylists from becoming stressed and missing spots. "I braid hair within subsections to start the process of stretching the curl formation," adds Peralta. Brush better. Dry half-inch sections at a time, using a three-inch round brush for long hair, or a two-inch round brush for shorter locks. "Wind strands fi rmly around bristles to create the tension needed to straighten effectively," instructs Goff. A round brush further helps maintain shape and volume for those who don't want hair to lay super fl at and straight. Seal the deal. Keep air going in a single direction— root to tip—to nix frizz and smooth cuticles. "Finish with a lightweight shine spray or a favorite product that locks the style in place," concludes Peralta. HOT TOPIC #3: TOO HOT TO HANDLE HOT TOPIC #4: CURLICUE DRYING DO'S GETTY IMAGES

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