Beauty Launchpad Magazine

OCT 2018

Beauty Launchpad is everything beauty for salons & stylists! Stay on top of the latest hair style trends and products for hair, skin, makeup and nails. Get hair color ideas, business advice, education tips and beauty industry news.

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Page 93 of 104 | OCTOBER 2018 | The Colorist 89 CARAMEL CONTOUR Give her a whole new dimension of color with caramel contouring, an incredible feat of sculpting and highlighting by ★ Joico guest artist Zoë Carpenter. Here, she shares how to pull off all-angle facial perfection, enhance your client's complexion, and create the illusion of thicker, more lustrous hair—all in a single color service. @joico FORMULA 1 • Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener with 5-vol. (1.5%) LumiShine Developer FORMULA 2 • 1oz. (30ml.) LumiShine DD Crème 9NG • 1oz. (30ml.) LumiShine DD Crème 6NG • 2oz. (60ml.) 5-vol. (1.5%) LumiShine Developer FORMULA 3 • 1½oz. (45ml.) LumiShine DD Crème 9NG • ½oz. (15 ml.) LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB • 2oz. (60ml.) 5-vol. (1.5%) LumiShine Developer GLOSS FORMULA • 2oz. (60ml.) LumiShine Demi-Liquid 10NG • ½oz. (15ml.) LumiShine Demi-Liquid 10NC • 2½oz. (75ml.) 5-vol. (1.5%) LumiShine Developer TECHNIQUE 1 Begin with the hair parted down the center all the way to the nape. 2 Part hair into four sections: two from center of ear forward and two behind. 3 Apply Formula 1 in a "v" painting method to a diagonal forward vertical slice section just behind the ear. 4 Apply Formula 2 to the inside of the "v" to lend depth and dimension. Blend the lines out to avoid making a severe line with the lowlight formula. 5 Repeat process for three to four slice partings until you reach just above the ear, working in diagonal vertical partings with Formulas 1 and 2. 6 Repeat process on the opposite side for a total of four to fi ve slice partings in the same manner as the fi rst side. 7 Continue working upward in the same section. Using red foils, apply lowlights (Formula 2) from scalp to ends. To create more texture and dimension, leave some ends out on your lowlights. 8 Using your creative eye, determine where to apply light with Formula 1 (in foils) to balance your design, blurring the line of demarcation on a grown-out balayage. 9 Keep working upward in various diagonal partings, alternating between Formulas 1 and 2. These varying diagonal partings will ensure your color is well blended as well as erase any prior lines of demarcation. Continue taking microslices until back sections are complete. 0 Next, working in the front, take a fi ne diagonal forward slice parting and apply Formula 1 to the pieces that frame the face—these are called "skin lights." q When applying contouring lowlights (shadows) to sections behind the face frame, apply Formula 3 from scalp to ends. w Continue working in the front section with Formulas 1 and 3, adding depth and light to contour the shape. Keep your partings angular with fi ne slices. e Repeat on the opposite side. r Process for 35 minutes, then shampoo with K-Pak Color Therapy. Towel-dry with two towels by squeezing, not shaking, the hair. Apply Gloss Formula from scalp to ends with a bottle applicator, then process for 15 minutes. Shampoo and condition with K-Pak Color Therapy. ULTRA VIOLET "The trick to a really vivid violet is to keep pumping up the pigment power as you progress down the hair shaft, and add kicks of vibrancy in pivotal spots," says ★ AGEbeautiful artistic director Mike Petrizzi. Below, his formula for recreating this bold color. @zotosprofessional FORMULA 1 • 2oz. 5V Permanent Hair Color • 2oz. 20-vol. Developer FORMULA 2 • 1oz. Medium Intense Red Violet • 2oz. 30-vol. Developer FORMULA 3 • 1oz. Light Red Violet • 2oz. 30-vol. Developer 1 Section away a 1½- to 2-inch triangle right below the part line on the heavier side. 2 Repeat a slightly smaller triangle right below the opposite part line. 3 Apply Formula 1 to the immediate root area/zone one for entire head, including sectioned off areas. 4 Apply Formula 2 to the mid-lengths and ends of all hair except the sectioned off triangles. 5 Finish by applying Formula 3 from mid-lengths to ends of sectioned off areas and separate with foil. 6 Process for 30 minutes, rinse, shampoo and condition. FROM TOP: COURTESY OF JOICO; COURTESY OF ZOTOS PROFESSIONAL; GETTY IMAGES

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