Beauty Launchpad Magazine

AUG 2018

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62 The Colorist | AUGUST 2018 | beautylaunchpad.com Honeyed Hue "The fi rst step to proper color or perfect blonding is to determine the fabric that we are working with," says Sharon Medina, ★ Inoar Professional educator. "Depending on if the hair is virgin, colored, healthy or damaged, that will help determine what type of blonding technique we are going to use." Here, she shares some of her highly coveted techniques for blonding, depending on your client's hair type. @inoar_usa VIRGIN HAIR LEVELS 1-5: Use powder lighteners, high-lift colors or cream lighteners with a higher developer 30 or 40—they will provide a nice lift up to four or fi ve levels. On lower levels, use a toner to balance out the under-pigment that has risen from lifting. 1 Divide hair into four sections. 2 Apply desired color from mid-shafts to ends. Proceed to apply onto roots until desired lift is reached . 3 Apply toner to balance or enhance the desired tonality you wish for your guest. NATURAL, TREATED OR PROCESSED HAIR LEVELS 6-10: Use powder lightener, higher-lift colors and cream lightener as well, with a lower developer volume such as 10 or 20. They will also produce up to three or four levels of lift without damage, balance any unwanted under-pigment and close the cuticle. 1 Divide hair into four sections. 2 Apply desired color, starting at the new growth areas and then proceed to go over any spots that need to be lighter in some areas. 3 Apply toner to balance or enhance the desired tonality. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF INOAR PROFESSIONAL; COURTESY OF GOLDWELL; COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL RESOURCEFUL FORMULA (Background Root Shading): Topchic + 20ml. 6% (20-vol.) + 20ml. H2O + 5ml. 8CA + 15ml. 10 vol. DRIFTWOOD FORMULA (Mid-Lengths and Ends): Colorance Cover Plus + 40ml. Colorance Cover Plus Lotion + 2ml. Pastel Indigo + 8ml. 10BS + 10ml. 10BG PRE-LIGHTENING On regrowth, apply 35 ml. Conditioning Cream Developer 6% (20-vol.) + 1 scoop of High Performance Lightener + 3 pumps of Intensive Conditioning Serum Concentrate. After processing, shampoo and condition. TECHNIQUE PART 1 1 Divide hair into four sections and apply the Resourceful Formula on only the scalp area to create a root shading effect. 2 Apply the Driftwood Formula on the mid- lengths and ends of the same sections. 3 Process for 20 minutes, then shampoo and condition. TECHNIQUE PART 2 1 Section three ovals. Oval shapes are two Earthy Effect If your client is looking for something extra, ★ Goldwell artistic director Rebecca Hiele has conjured up an earthbound cool blonde with subdued hues and oval round effects that mimic mineral erosion and gradient diffusion with fl uid texture for a multidimensional look. The model's natural regrowth had been colored with 5N while her mid-lengths to ends are 10G. @goldwellus 1 Apply BlondMe Bond Enforcing 9+ Lightener with 20-vol. 6% BlondMe Premium Developer from mid-lengths to ends, half an inch off the scalp. Lift to a level 9.5. 2 Apply BlondMe Enforcing 9+ Lightener with 20-vol. 6% BlondMe Premium Developer on scalp. Once the rest of hair lifts to a level 9, let everything lift together to an even level 10. 3 Shampoo and condition. Tone with BlondMe Ice and Steel Blue equal parts with one inch of IGORA 0-11 with 7-vol. developer for 10 minutes. Platinum Pe rfection It takes a lot of courage to go super blonde, but the results are defi nitely worth it. ★ Schwarzkopf Professional infl uencer Zach Mesquite shares his formula and technique for mastering this gorgeous blonde color on a natural level six. @schwarzkopfusa inches by three inches in size. Isolate the fi rst oval in the fringe area, the second oval at the left ear above the round of the head shape, and the third behind the right ear above the round of the head shape. 2 Using macro slices, start from the longer part of the oval from bottom to top. Alternate all three accent shades down the strands and isolate in thermal foils. In the fi rst slice, with a medium color brush, paint each shade in circular ovals down the strands in rotation. Alternate the three shades in three rotations until each oval section is completed and isolated in foils. Process for 20 minutes. ROTATION 1 Accent shades 1, 2 and 3 ROTATION 2 Accent shades 3, 1 and 2 ROTATION 3 Accent shades 2, 3 and 1 ACCENT SHADE 1 Chili Oil: 40ml. Colorance Cover Plus Lotion + 13ml. Pastel Peach + 5ml. 7RB + 2ml. 6KG ACCENT SHADE 2 Little Boy Blue: 40ml. Colorance Cover Plus Lotion + 15ml. Pastel Mint+ 3ml. 8CA + 2ml. Pastel Indigo ACCENT SHADE 3 Rusted Lavender: 40ml. Colorance Cover Plus Lotion + 5ml. 9KG + 15ml. Pastel Lavender

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