Beauty Launchpad Magazine

AUG 2018

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106 | BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD | AUGUST 2018 HOW TO CONSULT ON FOUR DRASTIC CHANGES These services are the toughest of the tough for guidance—but they're also some of the hottest 180-degree hair changes around. 1 RAINBOW HAIR First, explain how the color works. "Since its temporary, it will fade every single time the client shampoos," says Adams. Walk clients through the process— that you'll likely lift hair to platinum to achieve the desired vibrancy— what it will cost, and what it can do to hair. The condition of the client's hair plays a major role, too. Be sure to have a candid discussion about accelerated color fading due to factors like porosity and prior damage. Prepare clients for frequent visits for color refreshes, and if you know you won't be able to lift their hair to the requisite white blonde, explain why this will affect the color outcome. "After any toner you applied fades, yellow-y hair will change the color—think: Yellow plus a silvery gray equals green," Adams explains. For pastels: "I advise guests to go a bit bolder because after a few washes it will fade to the desired color, and you then get more longevity," says Adams. For both brights and pastels, Banowetz tells clients to wash with cold water as well as color- safe or color-depositing shampoos to stave off color fade. 4 THE BOB "Pictures are a must because my idea of a bob is above the shoulders while the client might picture her hair below the shoulders," says Banowetz. However, bobs need to be adjusted to suit the client's features, so be sure to explain that the fi nished cut might not refl ect the exact celebrity photo she brings to you, says Cutler. Then give her an instant visual. "I'll create a mock shape by pulling up the client's hair and making it look like a bob," explains Cutler. "I study her body language during this. Does she sit up and take interest? If not, I'll keep playing with the shape until we fi nd one that makes her happy." Finally, walk clients through the maintenance and growing-out process. "At some point, they'll want to grow out their hair, so discuss realities—the time it takes and any trims in between—in an authentic way," Cutler says. Once a thorough consultation is complete, the transformation can commence. 2 PLATINUM BLONDE This conversation is all about managing expectations. "Going from dark to platinum in a day is most likely not going to happen," says Banowetz. "Your client needs to know the commitment—and the cost." If you know you're not able to lift them to their liking, walk them through why—including a very honest conversation about the condition of their hair, says Cutler. Maintaining hair integrity should be a goal for any colorist, and if this is communicated to the client thoroughly, the client should agree. Finally, discuss what will happen after she goes blonde. "If she decides to change her hair to another color, how will you transition her out of blonde?" says Cutler. "That's something you need to discuss before you even lift her. It's a big conversation that often goes unsaid." 3 BLUNT BANGS For such a simple-seeming chop, bang snips can be the most diffi cult to pull off perfectly in one sitting—and even if you do, the visual change can still drive a client to tears. To avoid this, Cutler says you'll want to discuss upfront how the bangs will grow out, how to style them a few ways, and how often the client should come in to maintain them. "We do complimentary bang trims, and we encourage clients to come in regularly to keep up the look," he says. 1 2 4 3 GETTY IMAGES

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