Beauty Launchpad Magazine

OCT 2017

Beauty Launchpad is everything beauty for salons & stylists! Stay on top of the latest hair style trends and products for hair, skin, makeup and nails. Get hair color ideas, business advice, education tips and beauty industry news.

Issue link: https://beautylaunchpad.epubxp.com/i/876821

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 96 of 108

94 | BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD | OCTOBER 2017 News We should all be thankful for our gray coverage clients. They are our bread and butter. They visit frequently—sometimes as often as every three weeks. They're loyal and they're lucrative. So I take these clients very, very seriously. I always begin a gray coverage service with an extensive consultation. I determine the client's expectations, her color history, her level of commitment to hair color, her lifestyle and career. I ask about scalp sensitivities. After the consultation, I place the client into one of two categories. 40 and Below This client is generally looking for multi-tonal gray coverage or blending, with youthful vibrancy. For her, I might work with the Matrix SOCOLOR Dream Age range, which produces wonderful, multi-tonal peaks and valleys with coverage. If she needs a bit more coverage, I choose to work with Logics—it provides refi ned, nuanced coverage. I also like to work with Matrix Color Sync whenever possible—I can achieve gray blending, partial coverage or full coverage by adjusting the timing or levels of developer or by adding boosters. With Color Sync I avoid lines of demarcation since it's demipermanent color. 40 + These clients generally demand full gray coverage—they never want to see a single silver strand! They're also quite clear about their tonal preference (warmth or no warmth) and they want high-fashion color. I prefer working with Matrix ammonia-free COLORINSIDER for these clients. With COLORINSIDER, they don't experience the strong ammonia odor, and it's often less irritating for the scalp. That said, I always perform a patch test on a new client. Here are a few other gray coverage guidelines that serve me well: It's best to stay within two levels when lifting, otherwise you begin compromising the coverage. If a client wants to be lighter, I'll apply face- framing balayage highlights during the retouch. Dark Latino hair usually becomes warm when lifted so I always cool off the base. I'll retouch with an NA or add an A or AA to my formula. Consider using two formulas—one for the front where gray is heaviest and one in the back behind the crown. Increase the developer one level for the back section, or use SOCOLOR Extra Coverage in front, but not in back. To ensure coarse, resistant hair is completely covered, I always process for the complete 45 minutes. What's more, after 20 minutes, I reapply the color to the hairline area where the hair is most resistant. This is a staple in our salon—it's part of the service. When I don't do it, those temples expel the color and stay silver! It takes two minutes to reinforce the hairline and it saves a lot of heartache. Hydration is critical. When we take moisture out of the hair, we have to put it back in. I prescribe the Biolage R.A.W. Re-Hydrate and Re-Hab Clay Masks. I fi nd they drive moisture into the hair without leaving it feeling waxy or fi lmy. GRAY MATTERS Robert Santana, Matrix artistic director and Latin Expressions team leader, divulges his best advice for coloring gray hair. 866-481-4604 ENROLL NOW - CALL A SPECIALIST TODAY! www.nynab.com ©2017 North American Bancard is a registered ISO of Wells Fargo Bank, N.A., Walnut Creek, CA, and The Bancorp Bank, Philadelphia, PA. American Express may require separate approval. * Durbin regulated Check Card percentage rate. A per transaction fee will also apply. **Some restrictions apply. This advertisement is sponsored by an ISO of North American Bancard. Apple Pay is a trademark of Apple Inc. . 05 % WHOLESALE RATES INTERCHANGE % RATES AS LOW AS * PROCESS CREDIT CARDS ON YOUR SMARTPHONE • FREE Placement, Credit Card Terminal Wireless / Land Line / High Speed / Dial-Up • Easy Setup - Quick Approval • Integrate with your current POS • Free Paper** • No set-up fee • Check Services Available • NAB will reimburse your business up to $ 295** if you have an early termination fee with your current processor NEXT DAY FUNDING AVAILABLE BECOME EMV READY N F C & E M V E N A B L E D FREE TERMINAL & PIN PAD or WIRELESS TERMINAL WIFI TABLET TERMINAL REDUCE YOUR CREDIT CARD PROCESSING FEES i ll b COURTESY OF MANUFACTURER

Articles in this issue

Links on this page

Archives of this issue

view archives of Beauty Launchpad Magazine - OCT 2017