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OCTOBER 2017 | beautylaunchpad.com | 83 Weft A weft of hair (approximately two to four-inches wide) is fi rst applied to hair in rows, rather than individual strands. Wefts can be attached in three ways: ✺ Tape-In How it works: Extensions are bonded to inch-long polyurethane tape strips. Stylists peel the cover like a sticker, then sandwich small chunks of natural hair between these sticky sections. Ideal for: Thin to medium density (application does not require potentially damaging heat, adhesive or tools). Application time: 20 to 30 minutes for volume, 45 to 60 minutes for full length. Need to know: If applied correctly and treated gently, tape-ins pose little threat to overall hair health. The weight of the weft is spread over a larger area, causing minimal scalp damage. Panels lay fl at, which makes them virtually undetectable. Quick removal happens with adhesive-loosening solvent. Extensions last up to 12 months and are typically reusable for three to four applications. ✺ Glue-In How it works: Short-term method where glue is applied to the base of the weft, then attached to hair. Ideal for: All thickness and densities. Application time: One to two hours. Need to know: Often selected for one-time-use special occasions. Follicles may clog if glue is applied wrong, which could cause bacterial scalp infections. Good only until your next shower. ✺ Sew-In (Braided) How it works: Once called a weave, as natural hair is fi rst braided to create a base for the extensions. Wefts are then sewn into braids using a needle and thread. Ideal for: Coarse or thick hair (fi ne strands don't braid well). Application time: Three to four hours. Need to know: Despite the lack of heat, tight braids may still cause damage over time. Clients sometimes experience headaches after the fi rst few days. Regular shampooing is a must to prevent bacterial growth through plaits. Oil or silicone products can be used, as slip won't happen unless braids loosen. Extensions last for six to eight weeks. GETTY IMAGES Each Problem Has Its Solv-ent. Every extension type prefers to be detached a different way, after a different length of time. Notes Ron Cardillo, SO.CAP. USA head instructor, "Proper use of the correct removal solution applied in a timely fashion promotes damage-free results." Prep, Please. First, cleanse and dry locks. "Hair is stronger when dry and more elastic if wet," explains Erin Hayden, Hairdreams master trainer. "Doing a removal on soaked strands could cause follicles to snap." Next, brush thoroughly to help extensions slide off smoothly. Bottoms Up. "Start removing at the base and work your way up," recommends Stan Rozmus, Cinderella Hair Extensions VP of operations. If extensions are reusable, lay them on a clean towel or over a styrofoam head in the same order they were extracted to make next round's application a cinch. Gain No Pain. "Many stylists are so fi xated on removal, they don't realize they may be pulling clients' hair," Hayden explains. Firmly but gently, hold natural roots in one hand before brushing or sliding off faux strands. Oh, What a Tangled Web. Relax hair knots post-removal by spritzing manes with a leave-in, silicone-based conditioning spray. "Using the pointed end of a rattail comb, gently fl ick in an upward motion to loosen remaining tangles," advises Lee. Seal the Deal. Finish with a solid conditioning treatment, like an argan oil mask, and send customers home with moisturizing products. take it all off Removal of extensions is where breakage most often occurs. Follow these techniques for safe extraction sans stripping of natural locks. 1 2 3 4 5 6