Beauty Launchpad Magazine

OCT 2017

Beauty Launchpad is everything beauty for salons & stylists! Stay on top of the latest hair style trends and products for hair, skin, makeup and nails. Get hair color ideas, business advice, education tips and beauty industry news.

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82 | BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD | OCTOBER 2017 Get Schooled. Theoretical training is essential prior to application. "Learn about the specifi cs of each extension line you'll use before touching a client's head," advises Nanci Lee, Great Lengths national educator and pro technical advisor for HairUWear. "Even when not required, companies have education available." Consultation is Key. Detailed questions are a must in order to assess a customer's desires, lifestyle, tress type and budget. "Create a questionnaire, then chat with your client and check items off the list to ensure you're envisioning identical end results," suggests Baelee Reiter, national educator for Donna Bella Hair Extensions. Start with a Clean Slate. "Remove excess oils plus product buildup from hair by washing with a clarifying shampoo," recommends Bryn Wimberly, a HALOCOUTURE stylist. "This helps prevent slippage after extensions are installed." Bonus tip: Second-rinse with a pH-balancing product to close cuticles. Think Globally. "The head is not a square," points out Kristina Barricelli, HairDo brand ambassador. "Rather than working through your application in a grid pattern, picture a globe with drawn latitude lines." When installing, keep partings clean and straight to promote easy maintenance. Go Au Naturale. Respect the route of natural hair growth. Over-directing may cause damage and feel uncomfortable over time. Density Does Matter. Use smaller tufts in sections where hair grows fi nely to keep density balance in check. Consider Color. "Select strands matching the many hues found in your client's natural hair to create depth and illuminate via the use of highlights," Barricelli encourages. Fix Faults. Never accept a subpar installation. "There's no shame in redoing an extension to make it fl awless," notes Kat Lewis, head of education for DreamCatchers. "Take tips from fellow stylists and pursue ongoing education to perfect application techniques." Choices, Choices Extension options can be broken down into three main categories: strand-by-strand, clip-in and weft. Consider various factors—including tress type, lifestyle and cost—when selecting the one that suits your client best. Strand-by-Strand Extensions consisting of approximately 20 to 30 individual strands are attached to small hair sections using either a glue bond or micro link via a warm or cold application. Clip-In This temporary method doesn't require pro application or removal and is the best bet for fi rst-time newbies. ✺ Clip-In or Flip-In How it works: Clip-ins call on pressure-sensitive clips; fl ip-ins use a silk wire. Ideal for: Medium hair (clips might prove too heavy for thin strands). Application time: 10 minutes. Need to know: The gratifi cation is instant and non-committal, allowing for daily versatility of colors and styles, but pieces can fall out unless properly affi xed. Avoid frequent washing, but do brush through with a fi ne-tooth comb. ✺ Hot Fusion (Keratin Bond) How it works: A special thermal tool activates keratin-based "glue" found on one end of the extension, fusing it to hair that's been sectioned off in rows. Bonds are made half an inch away from the root and may feel odd at fi rst—like a small, hard bead stuck in the hair. Ideal for: Medium to thick hair (heat can damage thin strands). Application time: Three to four hours. Need to know: Not ideal for low- maintenance ladies. Care includes extra brushing to keep extensions free of tangles. Styling irons can't be clamped near the glue spot, as heat may melt the solid protein bond. Itchy scalps occasionally occur within the fi rst few weeks. Extensions last three to six months. ✺ Cold Fusion (Micro-Links or I-Tip) How it works: Small sections of hair are pulled through a tiny tube (often made of silicone-lined copper) that's clamped shut. Read: No heat, chemicals or glue. Ideal for: Medium to thick hair (tubes could poke visibly through fi ne tresses). Application time: Two to three hours. Need to know: Hair is reusable, unlike with hot-fusion bonds. Nix oil or silicone-based styling products, which could cause attachments to slide. Due to clamping, some clients experience headaches after the fi rst few days. Extensions last up to six months. Now Accepting Applications Regardless of extension type, these tips will help ensure the smooth implementation of every faux strand. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

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