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TALK IT OUT. Opinions vary when it comes to the defi nition of truly short hair, so never has a consultation been more key. A stylist's fi rst job is to describe the fi nished look in precise detail, then elucidate particulars regarding upkeep (read: Pixies require extra maintenance). Next, get handsy. "Feel around a client's head to understand bone shape and placement," suggests Anthony Barnhill, lead platform artist for Malibu C (@malibucpro) and owner of his own Sola Salon Studio (@solasalons). "Personalize each basic cut by adding texture or movement according to the skull's specifi c structure." 46 | BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD | JUNE 2017 COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS Live & Learn/ Quick Tips Anne Hathaway sobbed at a "mental patient level" (her words) when chopping off her luscious chocolate locks on camera to play the role of tragic fi gure Fantine in Les Misérables, but most short haircut experiences (hello, Katy Perry!) are arguably less traumatic. Here are top pro tips to keep clients smiling after getting sheared. —FM Worn Shorn GO BIG OR GO HOME. Take two minutes to lay out clean sections and plan a roadmap before snipping—then go for it. "Don't be afraid!" urges Jessica Zeinstra, global education manager at Andis. "Stylists are occasionally timid when fashioning cropped styles, which leads to unwanted overcutting as they take it slightly shorter with each pass." Be bold, be brave and cut to the end length on the fi rst shear. SEX MATTERS. This is one of the times when men and women aren't equal. "Square shapes look great on gents, but softening and rounding edges wears better with feminine features," explains Manny Rolon, V76 educator. "Stay away from hard angles on ladies' hairlines—unless specifi cally requested." CLEAN IT UP. Short hair edges grow out fi rst, so invest in good clippers to nip excess wisps around ears or along napes. "Most hairdressers and barbers also offer in-between trims to keep styles looking fresh," reveals Daniel Roldan, Matrix artistic director. That's especially important for undercuts and ladies with pixies. WHAT'S OLD IS NEW. Cropped 'do? Time to rethink how you're using old products. "If you rely on fi nishing spray, let it pull double duty as a pre-blowdry spritz, which may lend unique texture, or rock matte wax for a shattered look," suggests April Guilliani, Wahl education and artistic team member. "Most products can be gender neutral; it's all about how you experiment." AT-HOME UPKEEP Keep shorn 'dos looking sharp by investing in an arsenal of at-home maintenance products, starting with the Andis Cordless Envy Li Clipper, which is lightweight and perfect for cutting tapers and fades. The Cordless Magic Clip from Wahl helps prolong time between snips. Finally, make product your best pal. Ladies may especially love Height Riser, Over Achiever and Texture Builder by Matrix Style Link, while gents groove to V76 Molding Paste, Tex Texture Paste and V Rated Natural Wax, as well as Paul Mitchell Spray Wax. According to Anthony Barnhill, a lengthy consultation is essential before any chop. Manny Rolon's rule: Tailor shorn shapes according to gender. Jessica Zeinstra demonstrates the sharp points of bold shearing. Daniel Roldan recommends regular salon pop-ins to keep cropped. Andis @andisclippers V76 @v76 Wahl @wahlpro Matrix @matrixusa Paul Mitchell @paulmitchellus