Beauty Launchpad Magazine

MAY 2017

Beauty Launchpad is everything beauty for salons & stylists! Stay on top of the latest hair style trends and products for hair, skin, makeup and nails. Get hair color ideas, business advice, education tips and beauty industry news.

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84 | BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD | MAY 2017 "Vivid tones tend to fade very quickly, and pastels and blondes can easily become discolored," notes Jim Markham, founder and CEO of ColorProof Evolved Color Care (@colorproofhair). "Your clients are investing a lot in their color; make sure they are using products at home as part of their care regimen that will protect, enhance and give longevity to their color service." It's essential to use products specifi cally designed for color-treated hair to repair damage caused by coloring, and to preserve and protect the hue. Markham always recommends ColorProof SuperRich Moisture Shampoo and Condition, along with DeepQuench Moisture Masque to hydrate and repair hair. Tip: If your client's hair is looking dull and dry, you can add pigment into DeepQuench at the back bar to simultaneously tone, nourish and strengthen the hair. For metallic blondes and soft pastels, Markham recommends a purple-based shampoo and conditioner like SignatureBlonde Violet Shampoo and Condition, which will help extend color longevity and reduce discoloration by neutralizing brassy or yellow tones while brightening, replenishing and protecting their shades. And before clients head out the door, he imparts a few last words of wisdom: "Sun and heat are the two worst enemies for color- treated hair," Markham says. "Clients should try to stay out of the sun whenever possible or opt for a hat. Lastly, make sure each and every one of their styling products offers thermal and full spectrum color protection." In-salon treatments and post-care products are major income boosters for celebrity stylist Matthew Preece at his salon in Santa Monica, California. Clients are spoiled for choice when it comes to the different in-salon treatments he offers, from pre-shampoo services to deep hydrating masks and scalp treatments, all of which contribute to healthier and shinier hair. Preece also uses toners and gloss treatments to refresh clients' color between scheduled visits, which is another great way to generate extra income. But the services don't end there; Preece always ensures that clients walk out the door with recommended products in hand. "It's really important that our clients take care of their hair after visiting the salon," he says. "Creating a regimen for them to use at home after their salon experience is essential. A client should be leaving with a shampoo, conditioner and a mask that are specifi cally designed to prolong the effects of the treatment—whatever the target issue may be." Preece also carefully notes the needs of each client, for example, if they have highlights or balayage, then prescribes the appropriate products for them to take home. "For stylists, it's so easy to sell these products," Preece points out. "The fi rst thing you need is knowledge, like why is this the right product and what does it do for the hair? Knowing the answers to these questions will give you confi dence. It's important to have confi dence; the more you know about the products, the easier it will be to sell them, which makes a tremendous impact on your pocket." Achieving the perfect color is only half of the equation. Maintenance is the key to maintaining the vibrancy of one's new hue—which is why it's important for stylists to arm their clients with the right products and knowledge before they walk out the salon door. PRESERVE AND PROTECT Arda Itez, a master Lakmé colorist (@lakmeusa) at Yoni Kreger Salon in South Orange, New Jersey, does fantasy color melting on clients of all ages. She shares her top tips for creating the perfect mermaid melt below. Lift to the appropriate level. A basic rule of thumb is the cooler the color (blue or violet, for example), the higher you will have to lift to (at least a level 9). If you are creating oranges or reds, you shouldn't lift beyond a 7 or 8. The residual underlying pigment will help with the longevity of the color. Use multiple brushes. I can't stress this enough, if you're using two colors, use two brushes for the application and a third to blend the colors where they meet. It's vital to keep them clean so you don't mix shades. Be generous with your application. If you don't use enough color, especially where the colors meet, you will get translucency and the pre-lightened blonde will show through. Add a level to increase longevity. Lakmé has a gorgeous range of mix tones that I use for mermaid color. I always add a level to the mix tone to give it even more longevity. Then I use 0/00 in Gloss or Collage to create lighter or pastel shades. If I want to create a fl aming red, I will add a few grams of an intense level 7 red and make the remainder of the formula red mix tone. It always gives the color great holding power. MAJESTIC MERMAID Lakmé colorist Arda Itez created this playful mermaid look for a younger client. TOP TO BOTTOM: COURTESY OF ARDA ITEZ; GETTY IMAGES

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