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80 | BEAUTY LAUNCHPAD | MAY 2017 Keune's 2017 Haircolor Collection includes Semi Lilac, a cool semi toner containing powerful violet and gray pigments that look gorgeous on a light, cool base. TOP TO BOTTOM: COURTESY OF KEUNE; COURTESY OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS A gorgeous new trend to hit the hair scene this season, violet ice is a versatile color that works just as well on brunettes as it does on blondes—not to mention it has the ability to take everyday looks to a more magical level. "Violet is great for those who want to have a strong fashion shade but don't want to go too far into the cooler ash tones," says Black. "It's also great for brunettes to enjoy warmth, but on the cooler side of the spectrum." The trick to achieving a true violet ice shade is getting the perfect balance of blue undertones to your clients' color, while still keeping a slight pink overtone to soften the hue. It's a very fl attering shade for a lot of people, as it can be the perfect balance of cool with a hint of warmth. "You can't let the hair get too saturated with tone, so it has a more adult and expensive feel to it," Black notes. "It works best as a whisper of tone rather than a color that shouts." Goldwell (@goldwellus) artistic director Rebecca Hiele adds, "This beautiful spring trend is achieved with a diffusion technique in the hair, working the shade from lavender to the lightest violet ice in the strands." Here, she shares a step-by-step for achieving one of the season's ultimate violet looks using Goldwell Elumen shades. FORMULA 30ml SV@10 + 10ml Pk@all + 5ml Tq@all 1 Start by pre-lightening sections of the hair using a hair painting method, working 3 inches away from the scalp in the high recession and 4 inches away in the low recession. 2 Section each portion of hair, working in a diagonal forward pattern from the nape to the hairline. Using a soft vertical stroke, begin applying one scoop of Goldwell SilkLift Strong Lightener with 35ml SilkLift 6 percent lotion at the top of the strands, and softly blend the same SilkLift lightener with 35ml SilkLift 9 percent lotion midway down the strands to the ends of the hair. Observe processing time (Goal: 8 to 10 level). 3 Shampoo with Goldwell Dualsenses Blonde and Highlights, then towel dry hair. 4 Apply Elumen Prepare and rough dry with a blow- dryer. 5 Divide hair into four sections. Using the Elumen Comb and applicator bottle, apply the Violet Ice Elumen formula from scalp to ends and process for 30 minutes. 6 Shampoo twice, towel dry and apply Elumen Lock for fi ve minutes. Rinse and condition with Elumen Treat. SMOKE EFFECT Lyndsey Palumbo, a Los Angeles-based stylist who is also a member of Redken's #RTeam, creates a stunning smoky lavender for clients by mixing one tube of Wella Professionals (@wellahair) Instamatic color in Smokey Amethyst combined with ¼ tube of Instamatic in Muted Mauve. "The color will intensify the longer it stays on the hair," says Palumbo. "For an iridescent smoke lavender, leave it on the hair for 10 minutes. For a more vibrant smoke lavender, leave it on the hair for 20 to 25 minutes." She always uses Redken's ph- Bonder in her lightener and sends clients home with the post- service perfector to use as a deep conditioning treatment every other wash to keep hair healthy and add longevity to color. Tip for selling more product: "When I have a client in my studio, I always place the products I use on them right in front of my station and explain each product as I use it and its benefi ts," explains Palumbo. "7 out of 10 always want to buy them." Spring fl owers are in bloom and your clients' hair should be too. Inspired by the pastel shades in orchids, this progressive color looks good on every skin tone. PURPLE HAZE Ultra Violet